Journal Entries

Pretty soon, we're walking up a long valley between Kinlochleven and Fort William. We can't see far, but it seems to me that we're more or less in a pass. I still think it's gorgeous, although I was just nearly run over by a mountain biker who came whizzing around a corner. And there are hundreds and hundreds of ultra-runners charging out of Fort William, so it's a very busy trail today.

And on our final day on the trail, it seems we will get a proper Scotland send-off. It is rainy. We start the day with a climb out of Kinlochleven, and despite the sprinkling there are still some nice views of town.

The town of Kinlochleven, the second to last on the Way, is definitely my favorite so far. It's small enough that we can walk across town in just a few minutes, there are several places to stay, and several places to eat. And it has a pretty park in the middle, next to a climbing gym and gear store. I've heard that Fort William is a little over-the-top touristy, but this place is just right in every way.

And then, after reaching the highest point on the West Highland Way, it was a long descent with many miles of open terrain. Getting over a pass is always a highlight, since you suddenly have all kinds of new views. What a day.

Then came the longest, steepest, and highest ascent on the West Highland Way, known as the Devil's Staircase. I got a kick out of how everyone seemed kind of nervous about it. It was indeed steep, but on a very well-graded trail, and far from killer in its steepness.

The penultimate day was amazing from the start. Almost no clouds, great views in the Glen Coe valley, and a pleasant walk.

At the end of the day, we approach Glen Coe, and the clouds gather again. The day can't end without at least a little more rain. Luckily, we outrun it and get to a ski resort where we can sit inside for a little while for the rain to pass. And that's where we end for the day!

We continue across Rannoch Moor for almost ten miles. It's the longest stretch of trail on the entire West Highland Way, and feels even more remote than it probably is. The mountains tower over us, seeming higher than they are because of the constant fog swallowing their summits.

After dropping down to Inveroran, we ascend gradually up through Rannoch Moor, one of the largest uninhabited moors in Scotland. The clouds are still clinging to the mountains surrounding us, and the midges don't let us stop for long to enjoy the scenery, but this stretch of trail is easily one of the most spectacular we've seen yet.

Well, what do you know? The clouds began to clear as we made it to the high point between Bridge of Orchy and Inveroran. We finally get to see some real Scottish mountains. And they do not disappoint!